Here is the link for the 30 or so already posted;
Enjoy!
HTTP://picasaweb.google.ca/dave.stlaurent/safaritortiliscampamboseli?feat=directlink
“Reminds me of my safari in Africa. Somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water.” W.C. Fields
Sunday morning we were up at 5:30am and had a great b-fast at the lodge. Every table in the dining room has a little chimney'a to keep us warm. Keep in mind that we are 9,000 feet above sea level so its cool and damp.
We went for our orientation and drove to the foot of another volcano. This time we had to hike our way through the dense boosh to find the group of monkeys. This particular group has 80 of them. They only live in the tree tops and 80% of their diet is bamboo shoots. The other 20% is blackberries and the only time they will go to the ground.
Our hike kicked off in a little village where we began walking through the farmers fields. A little boy came up to us and was carrying a bucket of mud on his head. He had to be at least 7 years old. He was standing the shaking, the bucket was so heavy and all I could make out was "do you have a pen??"... I did, and Dan gave him some money too. He dropped the bucket and ran home yelling to his family! It was so cute!
Once we got to the stone wall, the hike got really interesting! We are sure glad we had our waterproof hiking boots as the mud was a serious glaze and had the consistency of chocolate pudding. At some point, Dan was sure his boots stayed behind him! We had walking sticks, 2 guides and a ranger with (again) an AK-47.
After an hour or so we found the monkeys. They were very subdued as they are not big fans of rain. We spent close to 45 minutes with them and got some great pics. We made our way back to the Land Cruiser and Charles covered in mud! We had some water and went down to the river to rinse off (with all the locals watching). I gave a little girl my empty water bottle and so took off showing it to everyone! It was like she won the lottery.
We went back to the lodge to shower and get ready for our drive back to Kigali. On our way, we stopped in the village where they make the Banana wine and beer (I got a buzz from half a glass). There at the store I bought some mountain tea, chili oil and a bag of cake which we call muffins....Rwandans are not big on sweets so the cake was bland.
It was lunch time and you know me, I have a nose for BBQ! Yup, I found a small stand that was selling Sheep Shiskabobs, Samboosa (samosa) and fried/grilled whole potatoes! What a snack! Jas snapped a few pics, it was great. I forgot to mention or maybe I already did, that there was a pic of Tony Blair on the wall with the locals. Seemingly this is his favorite place to stop when travels to the Musanze region.
We continued on our way with ears popping as we descended. We stopped for a photo-opp overlooking a valley and yup, 3 children popped out of the wood-work asking for Pens. We didn't have any but I had 2 carbeners and I showed them how to use them. But they were distracted by my tattoo that they wanted to touch....funny!
We made it to the Serena Kigali early enough for a nap and shower just before dinner. We took a cab to a restaurant called Heaven. Literally it was. It overlooked the city lights and was built (100%) Rwandans. Even the tables, chairs and place mats. We bought t-shits to support the locals. Food was amazing too. Again, more great pics.
Its now Monday morning 8:00am local (2:00am for you) and enjoying a coffee by the pool. This morning we are going to the Rwnada Genocide Museum then to the airport for our return to Nairobi. Jas and I have made arrangements for another trip. We will fly out tomorrow morning to the Amboselli region for two nights. This is another Safari but at the base of Mount Killimanjero. Hopefully the mountain will be clear to see!
We'll keep you posted!
Bye for now....
We arrived at the rock wall of the National Conservency Park and were briefed on what to do and not to do when in the Gorillas presence. We must whisper, not point, not look Guhonda in the eye.....and no flashes on cameras. It was pretty clear.
Francois gave us some lessons on Gorilla talk and what certain grunts would mean. He also shared some eucalyptus leaves with us. They are the main diet of a Gorilla including bamboo leaves and shoots. I tasted it and was good. Francois also said that the locals used the leaves to rub under their pits to use as deodorant and will dry the wood to make charcoal for cooking.
Once we climbed over the wall it was only a matter of minutes that we met up with 2 trackers and one Ranger with an AK-47. 15 minutes later we were upon the Sabyinyo family. They were having breakfast. It was the most amazing feeling and site I've ever experienced! Big Ben (Son of Guhonda) was curious enough to grab at Jasmina's leg and try to take Dan's shoe off. Francois let out a few grunts to say "okay that's enough"....and Big Ben went elsewhere to graze.
Guhonda, yes he is huge and an amazing creature. He seemed to be very relaxed and calm. The weather was rainy and hazy. Gorillas in the mist! It was special and I have lots of pics and video. We spent 1 hour with the 8 we could see. There is even a baby called Sacola who's main interest is to suckle mom.
This was a great day and it was time to leave. We drove up to the Mountain Gorillas Lodge by 1:00pm. The staff there is amazing and views are spectacular. We could see 4 of the 6 volcanoes. Unbelievable. We checked in, they took our boots to be cleaned and we had a late lunch. We used the afternoon to relax and get ready for a show (dancing) put on by a local orphanage. They were really good and I have video of this also!
Dinner was good and we ended up at Dan and Trudy's lodge for a few night caps before bed.
A fire was started in our fireplace and there were 2 hot water bottles under the sheets!
It was a great day and next, I'll write about the Golden monkeys!
We had breakfast at the Serena and Jasmina scored some Nutella and Peanut butter and was all smiles!
Charles picked us up at 9:00am and we did a quick tour of Kigali. We stopped at the former Belgian military base then stopped to buy a case of water for the next few days of trekking. It wasn't long before we were climbing altitude, winding our way of the mountains. We had a 3 hour drive ahead of us with a final altitude of just over 9,000 feet above sea level. For those of you that are not familiar with altitude, Toronto is exactly 257 feet above sea level. What I find also weird is that I once jumped out of a plane at 3,000 feet....hun!
Jas and I are dealing with it fine and have no need to take the pills.
There are many villages on the way and the mountain sides are all manicured by the farmers. From a distance, it looks like large steps dug out of the mountain. They grow beans, peas, bananas, pineapple, sweet potatoes, carrots, corn, coffee and more. Something I need to mention is that there is no farm equipment. It is all done by hand. The Rwandans are in great physical shape as they walk everywhere (on the road side)! Vehicles are not affordable to them. They work their plot of land, harvest their take for the day and walk it to the next village to sell or trade it. The journey can be very long as their is no flat land. All up and down hills and mountains. It is so interesting and amazing how the majority carry/transport their goods that they are bringing or taking back home. The method of carry all depends on what tribe they are from. Some, place baskets, buckets or potato style sac's on their head.....I even saw some with a back pack, an umbrella and even their purse on their head! They must have strong necks... The other tribe will have a cloth strap across the top of their head tied to the goods they are supporting with their backs... Many carry water jugs and again, I seen a woman carrying a table and 4 chairs in this fashion! Amazing...
We stopped in one village where they make wine from bananas. We bought 2 bottles and will try it tomorrow. In the store was a picture of Tony Blair with the staff. It turns our that this same village is where they make that chili oil extract!
I had the front seat with Charles who, in conversation said he was the President's body guard for 10 years. He also was the chosen driver to Prince Philip and Queen Elisabeth when they were in Uganda to celebrate the anniversary of a national park named in the Queen's honor...
We drove past our hotel of tonight and drove to Gisenya, now known as Rubavu. This is where we were to stay tomorrow night ( Lake Kivu). Now the plan is to stay at the foot of the mountain where the Gorillas are. We had lunch at the Stipp Hotel over looking the Lake. Just beautiful. We could see Goma, the capitol of the DRC. (Democratic Republic of Congo) which border is only 1.5km away.
Charles gave us a tour of Gisenya including a stop at a hot volcanic spring and a scenic view of the Nyiragoga Volcano....Active! We stopped for a drink in the back courtyard of a 3 room hotel to even watch Chelsea advance to the world cup!
We made it back to our hotel, the Hotel Gorillas at 7:00pm and crossed the street for a drink and some dinner.
Charles will meet us for breakfast at 6:00am tomorrow. We should be trekking until 1:00 or 2:00 pm then its lunch at (?). Anyway, I remember that its near the top of a non-active Volcano.
Alright, its almost 10:30 local time and need some sleep. TTYS!
We were greeted by Charles, our driver and guide for the 4 days we are here. Charles is the official driver for the British High Consulate (who is away on business in Uganda).
We loaded up the Land Cruiser and headed for a place to exchange some money into Francs (local currency). In Rwanda the steering wheel is on the Left and they drive on the right. It was dark when we arrived but what I can see so far, the city is very clean and doesn't seem to be as chaotic as Nairobi. The roads are much better too. I was amazed by how many motorcycles there are with riders wearing green helmets. Dan said they are "taxi-moto"... You want to go somewhere, you just hop on the back and they will take you there.
The city is nestled in a mountain side and I can't wait to see it in daylight. We arrived at the Serena hotel and let me tell you, this place is amazing! I felt under dressed in jeans and a golf shirt! The rooms a beautifully appointed and the bathrooms are all marble with a large tub and glass shower. For $250 USD a night, it is worth it.
We quickly cleaned up and met down at the bar / terrace. We had a few beers and decided to stay putt and ordered dinner. I had a traditional goat stew with plantain (not potatoes). It was really good. They offered as a condiment a hot sauce but was not saucy, it was hot pepper oil extract. Ya, I need to buy some of this to take home! Its hot! It got on my fingers and even this morning it made putting in my contacts an eye watering challenge!
It is presently 6:30 am and I am back at the terrace for a coffee. It is Rwandan grown and much stronger than Kenyan. It is really good. For some reason they look at you like you are crazy if you don't add warm milk and sugar!...funny.
Jas is still sleeping so I will go and wake her up to get ready for breakies and our departure for the Volcano's National Park at 9:00am. By the sound of it, our itinerary has changed completely aside from trekking for Gorillas and Golden Monkeys. I'll keep you posted soon!
Brian, Hope you enjoyed the Elephant pictures....and Chantal, say hi to Mom for me! :-)
Before leaving the park we decided to ask a Ranger to help us find the Rhino's. He did and we found one! A white Rhino...fantastic! We also got to see a Wart Hog, a Secretary Bird and a Leopard Turtle!
The drive to Trout Tree was good and bumpy but we made it. The restaurant was amazing and the grilled trout for 2 was even better!
I write to you at 7:08pm local and we are in Nairobi traffic (fun).
Tomorrow we have a the morning to prep for Rwanda so I'll hop on a PC and upload some pics!
Tks for the comments, its fun to hear from you!
BFN
Yup, far in the distance he was watching over two Giraffe! He was at least 1000 meters away but with full zoom....and full digital zoom, I can make him out.... It was too bad we couldn't get to see him/them up close.
We came in for a shower before dinner and our unwanted guest was back....down the mountain though you could still hear him loud and clear! Three or four times at least. We still had Ranger escorts.
Dinner was great and we made good conversation with a couple moving to Brazil.
Its now 11:45pm and we just finished packing. As I write this, far in the distance a Lion roars.....and Its time for bed and a good night sleep for the drive back to Nairobi. Just before leaving the park we will try to see some Rhino then its lunch at the Trout Tree.
Good night and good day to you all!
This afternoon our plan is to find the Black Rhino's and go to the river for more of the Hippo's and hopefully a pride of Lions!?!?
Jas and I feel special as no one else in the camp hear the Leopard.
Bye for now...
We were greeted by our host Dan and his/our driver, Sidi. Yup, the steering wheel is on the right! I have to say though that the smell in the air is of wet wood/charcoal....not like Cuba that smells like wet Cedar.
Okay, time to go. Tomorrow morning we are leaving at 6:30 am for our Safari....Hopefully I can connect within the next 3 day.
BFN....
Time to go through security so we'll update you from A-Dam.
A quick shout-out to my buddy Glenn....it's his Birthday today! Happy 3#th....sorry, I meant to type a 9.
BFN.